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One of the cult figures in natural winemaking, Anders Frederik Steen started as a sommelier in his native Copenhagen—first at Noma, then opening Relæ and Manfreds—before starting as a winemaker in southern France in 2013. In the eight years since, Anders has filled notebooks: ruminations on what it means to understand (and misunderstand) wine, taste and pair it, leave the restaurant industry behind, where the balance lies between manual skill and abstract philosophy in a winemaker’s practice, and the technical minutiae of someone deep into his craft. These are his notes on wine-making and wine-drinking, but they’re also the doubts and deviations of any learning process and the work that goes into forming any kind of practice.
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